full transcript

From the Ted Talk by Nick Pizzo: The physics of surfing

Unscramble the Blue Letters


Of course, not all beaches are ceraetd eauql. Offshore underwater canyons or rock formations in certain locations like nzaare, Portugal or Mavericks, California refract the incoming wave energy into a single spot, creating misavse waves sought by srufers worldwide. And some of these waves travel for more than a week, with swells originating more than 10,000 kilometers away from shore. Waves surfed in sunny crfnoaiila may have oetaniirgd in the stormy seas near New znalead.

So while you may not be thinking about wetaher patterns in the South Pacific, tectonic geology, or fluid mnachceis, the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. And the waves we surf, created by wind, are just one visible part of the continuous oscillation of energy that has shaped our universe since its very beginning.

Open Cloze


Of course, not all beaches are _______ _____. Offshore underwater canyons or rock formations in certain locations like ______, Portugal or Mavericks, California refract the incoming wave energy into a single spot, creating _______ waves sought by _______ worldwide. And some of these waves travel for more than a week, with swells originating more than 10,000 kilometers away from shore. Waves surfed in sunny __________ may have __________ in the stormy seas near New _______.

So while you may not be thinking about _______ patterns in the South Pacific, tectonic geology, or fluid _________, the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. And the waves we surf, created by wind, are just one visible part of the continuous oscillation of energy that has shaped our universe since its very beginning.

Solution


  1. massive
  2. mechanics
  3. california
  4. surfers
  5. nazare
  6. zealand
  7. originated
  8. equal
  9. weather
  10. created

Original Text


Of course, not all beaches are created equal. Offshore underwater canyons or rock formations in certain locations like Nazare, Portugal or Mavericks, California refract the incoming wave energy into a single spot, creating massive waves sought by surfers worldwide. And some of these waves travel for more than a week, with swells originating more than 10,000 kilometers away from shore. Waves surfed in sunny California may have originated in the stormy seas near New Zealand.

So while you may not be thinking about weather patterns in the South Pacific, tectonic geology, or fluid mechanics, the art of catching the perfect wave relies on all these things and more. And the waves we surf, created by wind, are just one visible part of the continuous oscillation of energy that has shaped our universe since its very beginning.

Frequently Occurring Word Combinations


ngrams of length 2

collocation frequency
wave energy 2


Important Words


  1. art
  2. beaches
  3. beginning
  4. california
  5. canyons
  6. catching
  7. continuous
  8. created
  9. creating
  10. energy
  11. equal
  12. fluid
  13. formations
  14. geology
  15. incoming
  16. kilometers
  17. locations
  18. massive
  19. mavericks
  20. mechanics
  21. nazare
  22. offshore
  23. originated
  24. originating
  25. oscillation
  26. pacific
  27. part
  28. patterns
  29. perfect
  30. portugal
  31. refract
  32. relies
  33. rock
  34. seas
  35. shaped
  36. shore
  37. single
  38. sought
  39. south
  40. spot
  41. stormy
  42. sunny
  43. surf
  44. surfed
  45. surfers
  46. swells
  47. tectonic
  48. thinking
  49. travel
  50. underwater
  51. universe
  52. visible
  53. wave
  54. waves
  55. weather
  56. week
  57. wind
  58. worldwide
  59. zealand